<img height="1" width="1" style="display:none" src="https://www.facebook.com/tr?id=918799731584652&amp;ev=PageView&amp;noscript=1">
FCP Euro Service Kits

FCP Euro Kits

If you own a Volvo 940, you’ll be happy to know that replacing your front wheel bearings is no more difficult than replacing a set of rotors. In many cases that I’ve seen, backyard mechanics resort to amazingly long extension bars to get the axle nut to budge, sometimes hanging off of it like a monkey on a tree branch. Thankfully, all that stands between you and a new wheel bearing is a 36mm nut, a breaker bar, and a cup of coffee.

I picked up a set of Optimal wheel bearings from FCP. The bearings felt solid and well built. Sure, they’re not Genuine Volvo Bearings, but at about half the cost, I figure they would be worth the savings.

 

Optimal Wheel Bearing Optimal Wheel Bearing

 

Disclaimer: This front wheel bearing removal was done on a 1991 Volvo 940 GLE. Many parts and procedures are common across RWD Volvos, as well as other RWD cars. Other styles of bearings may also mount differently as well as being much more difficult to change. This procedure will not work for the replacement of rear wheel bearings on the same car

 

Step 1. Remove wheels and dust cap

After removing your wheels, grab yourself a flathead screwdriver and pry the dustcap off. I found that I needed to hit the screwdriver with a mallet to get it far enough in to get leverage and remove the cap. You may dent your dustcap slightly, but as long as the inner lip isn’t damaged, you’ll be fine. You may need to reuse this later if your new bearing did not come with a dustcap.

 

Step 1: Remove dustcap

 

Step 2. Remove Your Axle Nut

Believe it or not, this is probably the easiest step. Take your 36mm socket with a breaker bar, and turn it counter-clockwise. You’ll need a strong arm, but nothing the average mechanic couldn’t take care of. An impact wrench is not needed. You also don’t need to worry about keeping the rotor in place as the rotor rotates independent of the axle/axle nut.  Just turn the nut enough so that it is loose. You will remove it fully once you remove your caliper, caliper bracket and rotor. For many cars, there will either be a pin, or a hammered in edge of the axle nut. In either case, simply remove the pin or punch out the indent of the nut.

Note: You may choose to remove the brake system before removing the axle nut. It makes no difference to the installation process. For FWD cars, this is not the case.

Step 2: Remove Axle Nut

 

Step 3. Remove the Caliper, Caliper Bracket, and rotor

Remove your caliper, caliper bracket and rotor. You’ll need a 10mm wrench to remove the rotor guide pin, as well as a 10mm hex in order to remove the caliper bracket. It is possible to remove the caliper bracket and caliper together to save time. Just ensure you secure it to the side properly so it doesn’t fall, potentially damaging your brake line.

After removing the brake components, remove the axle nut fully and slide it off the old hub.

Note: Different cars may have different caliper bracket bolts. 

Step 3: Remove caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor

 

Step 4. Prepare for new bearing

In my case, it wasn’t a simple step of sliding the new bearing on. Along the inner lip of the dust shield which covers the bearing, there was an accumulation of rust which contacted the surface of the bearing. It wasn’t major, but any rubbing is never good. I took a dremel to the inner surface and ground off the rust until there was no more rubbing. After a test fit, make sure all your surfaces and spindle splines are clean before installing your new bearing.

Additionally, now is a great time to make sure your ABS sensor is clean of any metal shavings or brake dust that could potentially interfere with ABS operation.

Step 5. Install new bearing

I decided it was best to add more grease to the bearing. After all, the number one cause of bearing failure is a lack of proper lubrication. I greased the spindle, the inner bearing surface, the inner bearing face, as well as stuffing grease inside the bearing itself. Always use wheel bearing-specific grease for this job.

The bearing should slide on without any binding. Ensure it is placed on the spindle as straight as possible and pushed in as far as you can. Once it is on, take your new nut and tighten it. As the axle nuts don’t require any deformation to lock them in, it is possible for you to reuse the original nuts.

The proper torque specification for these axle nuts is to tighten to 75 ft/lbs and then a further 45 degrees* after that.

*Hat-tip to J. Simken for correcting me on the more correct torque specification!*

Step 5: Prepare and install new bearing

Reinstallation of brake components is the reverse of removal. Sit back, finish your coffee, and enjoy your new bearings.

New bearing installed

 

Shop Volvo Parts Online Catalog Lifetime Warranty

 


author image
Written by :
Tim Wong

Tim is a Canadian from Windsor, with a knack for taking things apart, and sometimes putting them back together. He is a mechanical engineer by day and backyard mechanic by night. His mantra in life is to never break another bolt.


More Related Articles