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FCP Euro Service Kits

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I'm not a fan of manual transmissions anymore. At all. Being a car enthusiast, this puts me in a tough place amongst others that swear by it. With modern DSG transmissions being so fun to drive (And non-DSG too! I'm looking at you, ZF 8-Speed) I feel that the need for a manual is dwindling. Regardless, internet enthusiasts are still clamoring for them on forums whether they're buying them or not, so these dinosaur boxes still exist and probably will for the foreseeable future in modern vehicles. But don't get me wrong - the manual still has its place.

The clutch is the most important part of their excitement

Where the manual transmission is most prevalent is in older cars where it was always the better option. Ask me if I'd take a manual or automatic F10 BMW M5, and I'd slap you silly for even mentioning manual in the same breath. But an E36 M3? Automatic would be a sacrilege. With that said, plenty of these desirable 90's vehicles still exist, and the clutch is the most important part of their driving excitement. Here's a few ways to know when a clutch is beginning to fail, and why.

Burning brake pad smell

I used to have a 2005 Subaru Legacy with one of the slowest failing clutches I've ever seen. While traveling up a steep grade in 5th gear at highway speed a distinct "burning brake pad" smell would find its way into the cabin. Once the hill flattened out, the smell stopped. The strange part was that I never noticed any clutch slippage while at speed - the revs always stayed linear. In any case, after swapping out the clutch with a new OEM Exedy unit, the smell stopped and I got many more reliable miles out of the car before selling it on. By replacing it early-on, I never found myself slipping away in traffic trying to get home.

Leaks can drip onto the flywheel

Rear Main Leaking rear main seal, transmission removed

It may sound counterintuitive, but leak-checking a vehicle regularly can save the clutch if caught early enough, before slipping sets in.

Define slipping? Test the clutch by driving the vehicle at a moderate speed (30-40mph) in a middle gear such as third or fourth - whichever gear gives you about 3-4000RPM or where the engine begins to hit its powerband. Mash the throttle - if the revs rise in a solid, predictable fashion based on the road speed acceleration, the clutch is grabbing.

Any sudden jumps of the tachometer or a "rubber band" effect are signs that the clutch can't hold, and is letting the engine loose before it can transfer its power to the gearbox. (Rubber banding = Revs stay the same, but the vehicle continues to accelerate. Very bad!) More commonly, revs will jump and the vehicle will struggle to accelerate on a badly worn clutch.

An oil leak between the seam of the engine and transmission usually means the rear main seal is leaking. When these leaks get severe enough they can drip on to the flywheel, slinging oil around inside the transmission's bellhousing. This makes its way on to the clutch, contaminating the friction material and creating a wet surface. Not very useful for clutching an engine to a transmission. A clutch can be saved if severe oil leaks are attended to ASAP.

The output shaft needs to be clean and greased properly The output shaft needs to be clean and greased properly

Throwout bearing issues

If the clutch pedal is beginning to feel heavy like there is a soggy tennis ball underneath it, problems are looming. Poor pedal engagement is often sign of a throwout bearing or hydraulic system issue. Despite sounding counterintuitive, a bad oil or brake fluid leak can cause this situation.

The throwout bearing slides on the shaft each time the clutch is pressed. Fluids leaked onto this shaft will contaminate with dirt and clutch material, causing a thick gooey buildup that inhibits the action of the throwout bearing and release fork. When this output shaft is clean and properly lubricated with the correct grease, this directly translates to a smooth and easy pedal feel.

Loud bearing noise in neutral is another sign the throwout bearing is on its way out. If you press the clutch while idling and the noise goes away, diagnosis is complete. Dry and worn throwout bearings can seize up from heat if this is ignored for too long.

Even if you regret your purchase

When a clutch fails it's best to act quickly on the repair. While rare, it is possible for a clutch disc to self-destruct when neglected, if it hasn't already worn down to the point of no return. Staying on top of oil leaks and knowing when your car needs a clutch will keep it humming down the road reliably, even if you do regret getting the manual like me!

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About the Author: Alex Fiehl

AlexIMG_0896 is FCP's Blog Editor and a Desktop Engineer from Endwell, NY. He has over 9 years of experience working on a wide array of import makes, but has found his home with European cars. With a (Regrettably 6-Speed) Volkswagen and Volvo at home, the garage is always busy.


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Written by :
Alex Fiehl


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